How to install your new lawn

  1. Remove all building waste and weeds.

  2. Spread a free draining soil to a depth of 7-15cm or loosen ground and mix in appropriate soil conditioners. For sandy soils, simply mix in organic material and rotary hoe.

  3. Level the surface using a screeding board, lawn leveller or similar device.

  4. Apply a low analysis fertiliser with an N:P:K of approximately 5:6:5 or lawn starter fertiliser to the surface and incorporate with a rake.

  5. In hot months, moisten the soil but do not make the soil too wet. Do not lay turf on hot, dry soil.

  6. Lay the turf as soon as possible after delivery using a brickwork pattern.

  7. On hot days, lay a section of turf and lightly water. Repeat this until all turf is laid. On cool days, turf can be laid all at once. Roll and water thoroughly within one hour of laying turf.

  8. Water thoroughly for 7-10 days or until turf is established, take care that the water is saturating the soil beneath the turf. In colder months, the turf will take longer to establish. The turf should not dry out until the roots are established.

  9. When the soil has firmed and the turf has rooted down, usually 2-3 weeks after laying (longer in winter), mow lightly to tidy up the lawn.

  10. Avoid walking on your new turf as much as possible during the establishment period to prevent the soil compacting and becoming uneven due to footprints.

Watering tips for your new lawn

  1. Begin watering new turf within half an hour after it is laid on the soil. Apply at least 2-3cm. (1 inch) of water so that the soil beneath the turf is very wet. Ideally the soil 7 to 10cm (3 to 4inches) below the surface should be moist.

  2. Pull back a corner of the turf and push a screwdriver or other sharp tool into the soil. It should push in easily and have moisture along the first 7 to 10cm. (3 to 4inches), or you will need to apply more water.

  3. Make absolutely certain that water is getting to all areas of your new lawn, regardless of the type of sprinkler system you use. Corners and edges are easily missed by many sprinklers (if windy) and are particularly vulnerable to drying out faster than the centre portion of your lawn. Also, areas near buildings dry out faster because of reflected heat and may require more water.

  4. Runoff may occur on some soils and sloped areas before the soil is adequately moist. To conserve water and ensure adequate soak in, turn off the water when runoff begins, wait 30 minutes to an hour and restart the watering on the same area. Repeat this start and stop process until correct soil moisture is achieved. For the next two weeks keep the below turf soil surface moist with daily (or more frequent) watering. Especially hot, dry or windy periods will necessitate increased watering amounts and frequency.

  5. As the turf starts to establish its new roots into the soil, it will be difficult, impossible and/or harmful to pull back a corner to check beneath the turf (tip #2), but you can still use a sharp tool to check moisture depth by pushing it through the turf and into the soil.

  6. Water as early in the morning as possible to take advantage of the daily start of the grass’s normal growing cycle, usually lower wind speeds and considerably less of water loss because of high temperature evaporation.

  7. If the temperature is very hot or hot winds are constant for more than half of the day, reduce the temperature of the turf surface by lightly sprinkling the area. This sprinkling does not replace the need for longer, deeper watering which will become even more critical during adverse weather conditions.

  8. Infrequent and deep watering is preferred to frequent and shallow watering because the roots will only grow as deeply as its most frequently available water supply. Deeply rooted turf has a larger “soil-water bank” to draw moisture from and this will help the grass survive drought and hot weather that rapidly dries out the upper soil layer.